You should still have a split sleeve for the lower mount. Slip one half of the sleeve over the lower mount, with the larger diameter washer edge against the final drive unit. Gently guide the lower end of the Works Steel Tracker over the stud and the sleeve and install the other half of the sleeve, this time with the larger diameter washer edge to the outside. As there’s no spring washer used on the lower mount, I applied a thin coat of medium-strength (blue) thread locker on the clean, exposed threads. You can opt to use thread locker on the upper mount, as well, but it’s not as critical. Finally, install the nut. You’re almost done.

Installing the Remote Reservoir 

This is where you’ll be glad you removed the seat assembly, as you need to position the remote reservoir under the right rear frame wheel. The Works unit comes with a pair of rubber mounting blocks and a pair of stainless steel band clamps to hold it in place. Unscrew the clamps so the ends are free, and then slip them around the right rear frame rail a few inches behind the threaded mount for the seat assembly. Thread the clamps together again and slip the remote reservoir in place, the clamps holding it like a sling. Take the pair of rubber mounts and position them between the reservoir and the frame. The mounts are molded to fit the frame and reservoir; the smaller side goes to the frame. At this point it’s handy to have someone hold the reservoir while you tighten up the clamps, but if you work patiently it’s easy enough to do alone.

As the clamps get close to being tight, check the free-length in the stainless steel hose that runs from the shock to the reservoir. On my bike, I positioned the reservoir almost exactly between the threaded seat mount and the weld for the rear frame loop, leaving a nice relaxed S-curve in the hose that reminded me of an old Studebaker logo. Primarily, make sure the hose isn’t pulled tight and that the reservoir doesn’t hit anything. Tighten the clamps a bit more, make sure you’re comfortable with the reservoir location and then cinch the clamps down the rest of the way.

I’ve always been taught to tighten suspension bolts with the suspension loaded, the theory being you can introduce a bind if you tighten them with the suspension unloaded. With everything in place, push the bike off the center stand and have a friend hold it while you torque the upper and lower mounts to 25-30ft/lb. If you don’t have a torque wrench, experience will tell you if it’s tight enough. At this point, go ahead and reinstall the seat assembly.