Highway 80 is an east-to-west highway that extends from San Francisco to New Jersey. In California, it is often crowded with semi-trucks, and exists as a way to get somewhere, no fun intended. If where you are trying to get to is California’s Gold Country, and you are going west, you leave Highway 80 at Truckee, a few miles from the Nevada border, and turn north on Highway 89, a scenic and welcome relief after a stint of dodging trucks.

South on 89 will take you to Lake Tahoe, which is pretty, but can be crawling with tourists, especially on weekends. If you are coming east, you pass Sacramento and look for the Highway 49 sign in Auburn. Both north and south on 49 are lightly traveled and wooded, with broad sweepers. If you are going North and have booked a cabin or are camping, you might want to stop at the Safeway in Grass Valley for provisions — it is the last supermarket for many miles. Turn back your clock 50 years or so, ease up on the twist grip and enjoy the winding roads.
This area was anything but quiet 150 years ago. This is where gold was discovered in 1848, sparking a huge influx of immigrants. People from Northern Italy showed up, realized the climate was much like home, and started farms and ranches to produce food and wine for the adventurers. Financiers invested in railroads and ships and made millions. The Chinese laborers hired to work on the railroads stayed and brought their culture and cuisine.

The mines that sparked all this upheaval were worked out by the early 1900s. Mining towns that once had populations of thousands dwindled to a few hundred, and in some cases were abandoned to become ghost towns. Although the people left, the Gold Rush architecture stayed. The Gold Country is now dotted with campgrounds, fishing resorts, antique shops and museums. The place where gold was discovered, Sutter’s Mill, is now a state park featuring the nicely preserved ghost town of Coloma. Take Highway 49 south from Auburn eighteen miles. Downieville, north on Highway 49, has some of the original saloons from over 100 years ago, bronze plaques everywhere commemorating historic events, crooked, narrow streets and a one lane bridge over the river with interesting design elements.

This part of California has real seasons. Winter opens the ski runs. By the end of April, the snow has melted and fishermen and women are trying their luck on the streams, while mountain bicycle enthusiasts ride the area around Downieville. Dirt bikers, off roaders and ATV-ers head for the many dirt roads and OHV trails, some of which lead to ghost towns accessible no other way. During spring, summer and fall, the Gold Country is filled with motorcycle people. While the lap-time-improvement brigade heads out for the Carson, Ebbets and Sonora mountain passes, most cruisers and tourers stick to the less energetic life in the foothills.
The Northern California Norton Owners Club has been coming to the Gold Country for a fun and relaxing long weekend for years. There aren’t too many Michelin rated restaurants or world class shows in these parts, but the roads are all the entertainment we need. MC
Stay Gold
Visit Nevada County and Sierra County Visitors Bureaus to help your plan your adventure. Late April through the end of October are prime riding-weather months, but check weather forecasts before you show up: mountain weather can change quickly. Some areas have no cell phone reception so prepare accordingly. Bring a map, bug repellent, sunscreen and a good attitude.